ART AND FASHION OF THE LATE 19TH – EARLY 20TH CENTURIES: MODERN STYLE AND THE FORMATION OF UKRAINIAN NATIONAL IDENTITY

Abstract

The article highlights artistic and stylistic searches in art and fashion of the late 19th – early 20th centuries. The latest scientific publications on the subject are analyzed. The article analyzes how the search for a “great style” throughout almost the entire 19th century resulted in modern, which was based on the philosophy of life and the understanding of creativity as a natural-biological process, which was the artists response to urbanization and the pressure of the rapid development of scientific and technological progress, which radically changed people's lives. Attempts to overcome the opposition of “high” and “low” genres of art are shown, examples of the perception of a tailor as an artist and the development of costumes by architects and painters are given. The intention of introducing art into everyday life with the aim of ennobling a person and reforming society is assessed. The article emphasizes how Modern contributed to the emergence of design, how artists sought thoughtfulness and integrity of the entire system of things that surrounded a person, how this manifested in fashionable women's images. The components of women's images, costume means of their creation, symbolism and the specifics of their perception are detailed. Special attention is paid to the search for national variants of Modern in European countries and among the Ukrainian patriotically inclined progressive creative intellectuals. Two main ways of searching for national identity are highlighted: on the basis of folk art and the baroque artistic heritage of the heroic era of the Hetmanate. Examples of Ukrainian Modern projects of the Kulchytsky sisters in the field of costume modeling are given. The national specificity of style in the jewelry art of J. Marshak is characterized.The factors that caused Modern to lose its relevance are revealed. The development and return to of Modern fashion during the 20th century, the emergence of Neomodern in European design and Ukrainian art are traced. The relevance of studying and using the principles of Modern in the 2020s is substantiated.